Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Day 29: Florence- Street Markets and Piazzale Michelangelo

My plan for the day was to just enjoy Florence... hit the street markets, check out the view from Piazza Michelangelo... And probably have some gelato. First of all though, I wanted to take photos of the people in line for the Accademia. Rude, I know, but I was so lucky to not have to wait at all and I wanted to mock the less savvy tourists! Unfortunately for me, I couldn't take pics of them because... the Accademia was CLOSED due to a strike. Ooh you should've seen the looks on the angry tourists' faces. Now I was REALLY feeling happy that I decided to go on Sunday!



























Next I went to a cute little restaurant called La Mescita Fiaschetteria.



The owner, Mirco, told me I had to start with a glass of white wine... Even though it was only 11 am. It didn't take much to twist my arm though. I told him to make me his favorite thing on the menu, so he did: Risotto Fiorentino. It's basically rice with peas and beef ragu, and it doesn't look like much... but WOW. He didn't lead me astray! He also gave me a plate of "strawberry grapes" to try, grown by one of his farmer friends in the area. Also delicious!















































































Next I did a little shopping. I found a little shop with cool handmade leather bracelets for sale. I was just sort of checking them out, but then the shop owner came out and told me that he makes them on the spot and could do whatever colors and sizes I wanted. They were sooo cheap that I ended up getting the triple-wrap thin leather braided bracelet... in eight different colors.





















































I walked further down the street and ran right into the huge street market that Is famous in Florence. For sale it's mostly leather purses and coats, scarves, belts, t-shirts, and jewelry. I was looking for a nice wallet and maybe a gift or two for family. Most of the sellers were so friendly, though there was a really aggressive Asian guy who offered me a great price on a purse that I wasn't really interested in... And when I told him "the price is good, I just don't want it..." he started yelling and calling me stupid for not buying it at such a low price. I DON'T CARE IF IT'S CHEAP, SIR, THE PURSE IS UGLY, LEAVE ME ALONE. Other than that though, I had a very pleasant shopping experience :)





















































I wanted to see Piazzale Michelangelo, a high lookout point that other travelers had told me about. I didn't really know a specific way to get there, so I just started walking in the general direction. I went a little off the beaten
path, but walked past some pretty great scenery on the way.





















































I came to a fork in the road where my map sorta just cut off. An Italian man on a moped (or scooter, or bike, or something... I don't know the difference) told me a way that he said was much longer but much more beautiful. Eh, why not... I didn't have anywhere to be! So I took his advice and directions. The walk was long, and beautiful, as promised! It was also really quiet, as apparently most tourists take the easy-but-boring route.



























(I want this house... Amazing views)















































































On my way to the Piazzale Michelangelo, I stumbled on this 'little' gem... the San Miniato al Monte, a huge basilica overlooking the city.

























































I do love randomly running into gorgeous churches! A short walk from there brought me straight to Piazzale Michelangelo, with some stunning views and yet another replica of the David!

















































































After hanging out there awhile and taking photos, enjoying the weather, and chugging a nice cold coca cola light, I went back toward the city center.



























I rested up at my hostel, packed my things, and went out for a late dinner at Osteria Vineria i'Brincello. My strategy of ordering whatever my server recommends hadn't failed me yet, so I did it again. Pici (homemade noodles, like a reeeeally thick spaghetti) with ragu and mushrooms. Deeeelicious!





Monday, September 5, 2011

Day 28: Pisa and Lucca

I had no intention of going to Pisa and no desire to see the leaning tower, but my train to Lucca stopped there so I figured I might as well get out and have a look around. The city was actually pretty nice. One of the first things I saw was a building with a huge mural on it painted by NYC artist Keith Haring one year before he died. The building is under construction so I didn't get a totally unobstructed view, but it was still pretty cool.



























Other than that, Pisa was just kind of a cute little city. Really busy, with all different kinds of people.





























I stopped at a gelato place recommended by my guidebook and had the "zuppa inglese" flavor... No idea what it was, but I liked it! Although, I don't think I've ever NOT liked the gelato I've had here...





















































Next I got to an old central square of Pisa, full of beautiful buildings. If I remember right, one of them was the first law school in Italy (or something... really can't remember... something about a law school, though!).















































































I kept walking toward the leaning tower, and stopped into a really beautiful old church on my way. This one was really different than the others I'd seen- very simple, decorated mostly with stone mosaics. I've seen a lot of churches by now, but it's so interesting to see the differences between them.





























































I was pretty close to the tower at this point, so I stopped into a little bakery and bought some bread for a picnic. Eating in Italy (or really anywhere in Europe) can get expensive really fast, but buying a few breadsticks here and there has saved me quite a bit of money. So here I got 3 breadsticks: one plain, one rosemary, and one flaky one that tasted kinda cheesy. It's amazing how good the breads are here, especially because they're SO cheap.



























As I got closer and closer to the tower, it got more and more touristy. Pretty soon I was surrounded by tacky souvenir shops, which is exactly what I expected of Pisa. BUT I was pleasantly surprised at the tower. It's actually very pretty, and in much better shape than I expected. I guess I always imagined it as an old decaying tower, looking kind of like the Colosseum in Rome. Instead, it's beautiful white stone and doesn't look decayed at all. From up close, it doesn't look very tilted, either. But as you get further away...



There are lots of other really impressive buildings around the tower as well, Including the duomo and baptistery- though I couldn't go inside because I had to catch the next bus to Lucca.





















































I liked the tower, but I REALLY liked watching tourists take photos with the tower. So, I took photos of tourists taking photos of the tower :)



























Then I got on the bus to Lucca. It was a gorgeous half hour ride filled with rolling hills and vineyards.



























Lucca is a really neat city. It's surrounded by a very high wall, because hundreds of years ago Lucca, Pisa, and Florence were at war with one another. The wall still stands, but today it's covered with trees and gardens and a nice gravel path for joggers and cyclists.



Inside the city walls, it was a pretty quiet place, largely undiscovered by tourists. That was a nice change of pace from Pisa! I spent a few hours just walking around and enjoying the quiet.
















































































In the northern part of the city is the amphitheater, which is now just a large circular plaza surrounded by shops and restaurants.





























I'm not a cat person, but I thought this was pretty adorable... And I have to reblog it for my friend Libby ;)

























































Lucca has a few beautiful churches, some really nice town squares, and a long street with expensive shops. Other than that, it wasn't really a sightseeing town... More of a place to just relax and enjoy, which I did!



































When I got back to Florence I had dinner at this cute little restaurant called Nerone. I think my new goal in life might be to recreate Italian ragu... It's sooo delicious (the wine isn't bad either but I think I'll leave that one to the experts)!























































- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad